Chez Céline opened this past May at the corner of Fraser and 27th in Vancouver’s Fraserhood, taking over the former Say Mercy! space.
It’s the newest project from the team behind the one MICHELIN star St. Lawrence in Railtown. Led by chef-owner J-C Poirier, with Margaux Herder and David Lawson, the restaurant blends influences from Parisian bistros, Montréal brasseries, and Québec casse-croûtes.
Casse-croûtes are casual, often roadside diners found across Québec, known for hearty comfort foods like poutine, hot dogs, and tourtière. At Chez Céline, this inspiration is reflected in a laid-back atmosphere and a chalkboard menu that keeps things focused and seasonal, while still rooted in French technique.
We started with an amuse-bouche of panisse, a chickpea fritter that was crisp on the outside with a soft, custard-like centre. It was simple, well-seasoned, and easy to enjoy.
Next came the asparagus and turnips with gribiche. The vegetables were cooked just right, and the sauce added a briny sharpness that complemented the dish without overpowering it.
The 18 oz pork chop followed, served with a maple apple cider sauce. It was thick, tender, and balanced between lean and fatty sections. The sauce added a touch of sweetness and acidity. This is one of their signature dishes and a popular pick among customers.
We added a side of frites with aioli. Thin and crisp, they came lightly salted and were easy to snack on even after the mains. The aioli brought a bold garlic note that paired well.
To finish, we had profiterole topped with a rhurbarb sauce. The choux pastry was delicate and light, and the rhubarb filling provided a tart, refreshing contrast that closed the meal cleanly.
Chez Céline is located at 4298 Fraser St, Vancouver, BC.